I am amazed at the size of this city. When driving (because we don’t walk here – no one does) along a busy main street, you really have no idea of what labyrinth lies behind that initial wallpaper of shops and street vendors. But, turn into a small street or make a wrong turn, and you’ll realize that you are in another hidden neighborhood – a mix of makeshift living quarters alongside obviously well planned and often, horribly designed, houses of the upper crust. It makes me realize that, if I can find this hidden neighborhood here, how many others lurk behind the facades of the countless busy streets of this city.
A tour is in order. It’s not your typical neighborhood. In fact, it’s quite the opposite of what I imagined as my future place of residence, when I first came here 10 years ago on my first visit. To be honest, I was a bit scared after being led here for the first time. Really, you live here? It’s just not like anyplace I’ve ever lived. I have since adjusted (or, let's say: i'm working on it).
Still a bit to go, though. You'll need to navigate the small bridge over the canal, but don't worry, the neighbors are all out in their places, watching you carefully to make sure you clear it.
Our street is, maybe, 5 feet wide. Yes, I may exaggerate a bit, but really, it’s quite narrow. It’s back alley kind of narrow. It’s one car at a time, please. If you’re lucky, no one will be coming out while you are coming in. There is laundry hanging out to dry in the street (it cleans my car as I brush past). There are densely packed houses on either side, luckily, each with a distinct character of its own (which I didn’t notice, at first, since I was too focused on my side view mirrors practically grazing the walls on either side of the street). One story, two stories, four stories - we’ve got it all. Brown and yellow are favorites, and add a splash of bright blue for good measure. All houses are surrounded by walls with only a gate signaling the entrance to each property. Some are colorful, others rusted and in need of attention. They may be fully closed, wide open to what lies behind or sometimes just slightly ajar, offering only a peak into the lifestyle beyond.
If you were to look at an aerial view of our compound you would notice many things, but two stand out: we are not alone and we are never alone. First, we live next to my in-laws. Our house is part of a three pronged compound: our house, grandma and grandpa's house and an office (for the family biz). This insures that we are always in the company of a number of full and part time inhabitants, including one who is four legged, white and brown, and walks with the limp of a dog who has been around for a while. Second, we are surrounded in all directions (other than the one-way in) by a network of those aforementioned makeshift houses. Disturbing in the sense that we are, at times, without privacy, backed up against piles of fire kindling awaiting a stray spark, yet comforting in the sense that there is always help nearby (from the in-laws, that is, and not from the drunk, karaoke singing, loogie hocking neighbor over the wall).
So, here we are, nestled deep inside the endless maze of Bangkok, living with our extended family on a small invisible street, surrounded (closely) by the smells and noises of Thai life, and some of the tastiest food in the city. (To be continued….)
